Thursday, February 14, 2013

to give colour ~色を付ける~

I promised progress photos of my kimono dyeing and after several weeks of 12-hour long (or more!) days spent dy(e)ing, so here they come!
着物の色差しの写真をアップすると約束したのでここに載せます!数週間の間、一日に12時間以上作業する日が多かったけど、辛くても模様が生きてくるのが愉しみだった。

This step is called iro-sashi (色差し) which means putting on colour. In the case of yuzen technique, this means working withing the fine resist lines with various brushed and filling in the shapes with dyes. It's not unlike the silk painting that we are familiar with in Australia. In the case of yuzen, the dyes are mixed with a little thickener (sodium alginate: smells like a scummy rockpool but it does the trick), to prevent them from bleeding under the resist.
今回の写真は「色差し」の段階に撮りました。友禅の場合、色差しというのが、糊で置いた細い線の中に染料を筆や刷毛で差すのことです。にじまないように、メイプロガムという糊で染料にとろみを付けます。(腐った潮だまりの匂いがするけど、効果的です)


There are many dyeing techniques for yuzen, to achieve gradations, depth of colour and various effects.This video is classic 1990's Japan but it really gives a great idea of how a professional yuzen dyer goes about his work. You can see he uses both flat and round brushes, sometimes works wet on wet and is only working on a small section of the kimono fabric which is stretched taut on shinshi bamboo stretchers. My dyeing skills are nowhere near as skilled as his but anyway, here's some pictures of what I managed!
友禅には色んな染め方があります。このビデオがちょっと古い感じですが、色差しの説明としてとてもいいと思います。見えるように、この職人さんが色彩筆も刷毛も使っているし、塗れている染料にまた濃い色を加えているし、着物生地の部分だけを染めるために伸子で張ってありますね。それでは、職人さんのレベルに比べられないけど、自分で染めたのはこんなものです!

mixing dyes 色を準備して置く
dyeing flowers 花びらを色差し
職人さんがよく刷り込み刷毛も使いますが、私は筆の方が染めやすいと思います。Yuzen professionals often use flat tipped brushes but I prefer these round brushes.
ユーカリの実と葉っぱ。dyeing eucalyptus leaves and buds
testing colours on the actual silk fabric of the kimono. 着物に使う生地に色の試し

and then! hanging the almost complete lengths up together. So satisfying to join up all the pieces!!!  This is the centre back and part of the back right sleeve. それで、大体染めた四枚を棒で吊って、柄合わせして見る。これは背中と右袖の裏です。
a detail from one of the sleeves 袖の部分
まだ出来てないが、適当に吊って、どういう感じかを見るだけ。裾にある白い部分が水側。それはまだ染めていない部分です。Its not really a kimono yet, just four lengths of fabric. I hung them up and pinned the pieces in place to get an idea of the final result. Yipee!! the white section on the hem is a water motif, yet to be dyed in this image.
 The next step (there always seems to be another one!!) is to take the fabric to a company in Kyoto to have a final steaming and the rubber resist paste removed. They will also do what's called ゆのし yunoshi  where the fabric is held taut over steam to make it nice and straight again. Then I will have a unique hand dyed bolt of fabric that gets handed on to a seamstress (who knows what they are doing), to sew it all into a kimono for display! What an epic process this has been! (still is!!)
次の段階は(いつももう一つの段階があると感じる!)染色整理会社に渡して、最後の蒸しをして、ゴム糊を取って、湯のしまでやって貰います。その後は綺麗な(かな!?)友禅染の一反を誰か上手な人に展示用の着物に縫ってもらいます。たしかに長編冒険談のように、このプロセスが終わらない!!

The plan is to have the kimono all ready to go for my solo exhibition coming up at the start of April in Kyoto.  Lots to get done before then!! I'll be putting up details of the exhibition here before long.
一応四月上旬の個展で出来上がった着物を展示する予定です。古典まで色々頑張らないといけないです!また個展の詳しい情報をここに載せます!

4 comments:

  1. Wow, that is a lot of work. The feeling standing there looking at it and thinking "I did that" has got to be very exciting.

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